Huw's Ragu

As you travel through Italy, you'll find a vast array of regional differences in how the Nonna's create their Ragu, even from village to village!

I've drawn on a number of those over the years to create my favourite version, with a couple of little tweaks of my own.

Method

Mince first. Brown it off in small portions in a fairly hot pan. Yes, we are looking for the Maillard reaction! Colour and caramelisation. You will achieve this with small batches. Cooking all of your mince at one time will draw all of the liquid out, and the meat will steam as opposed to colouring properly. Once complete, set aside.

In the same pan, add the diced Guancale. Cook through until again some colour has been achieved. Reduce the heat and add the vegetables. Cook through until softened, and caramelised. Add the tomato paste, and cook that through for at least a couple of minutes to cook out the bitterness and to release the sugars. Add the red wine, and cook it off until well reduced, then repeat the process with the balsamic vinegar. Stir regularly to remove all the 'Sucs' (the sticky bits on the base of the pan). Return the meat and soffritto (vegetables) to the pan, along with the passata, stock, Worcester sauce, milk, herbs and parmesan rind. If you don't have the rind, a chunk of parmesan is fine as a replacement.

If you're wondering about the milk, it is often found in Italian recipes. Generally I found it to be an ingredient added towards the end of the cook. Introducing it early on is a technique stolen from Marco Pierre White (one of my food heroes). It adds depth to the sauce, and from a food science point of view, the acidity breaks down meat proteins too.

The pot can be quite liquidy (is that a word?) at this point, the plan now is to simmer away gently on the stove top for at least two hours to slowly reduce and thicken, and for all of the flavours to meld together and develop. Stir occasionally. Start to taste in the second hour. Season accordingly. If your palate suggests it, this is the point at which I would add a small amount (desert spoon) of soft brown sugar.

If the pot is becoming a little dry, add a splash of water, then continue to reduce.

Rich, unctuous, divine!

I said there are a couple of my own tweaks in there. I love using Guancale. Pancetta or even diced bacon would be acceptable replacements. Many Italian versions utilise Pork mince alongside the beef mince. I use the Guancale to give that 'porky' flavour profile, but enjoy the depth that beef gives the dish as the main protein.

Worcester sauce. I fully acknowledge this is an ingredient not regularly found in Italian kitchens. Leave it out if you're seeking purity, but I like the depth of flavour a small amount adds to the dish.

I guess this is an elevated version, but I guarantee it's well worth the extra time in preparation. It will store beautifully in the freezer if you've 'batch' cooked, and as we all know, is even better second time around!

Enjoy!

Cheers, Huw